Thursday, July 16, 2009

Peruvian Mixer

Just so you have proof that we are not exaggerating when we rail against rural cuisine, here you go. Our lunch. That same week we had rice, noodle, and potato soup; rice with potatoes; and noodles with potatoes. I think I could come up with a fun math activity for fourth graders with this… (Thanks for the tuna packs Mom, they’re saving our poor deteriorated muscles! Actually, we’re cooking our own dinners now, so our nutrition has improved and my Buddha Belly and Thunder Thighs are on the decline. But Brian’s Lanky Legs can’t seem to make a comeback. Humph.)




My favorite kinds of pictures…. It just never gets old!







The corn and orange harvest is over, but now comes the time for processing all of the food so laboriously collected. Like Jenny and Shaw observed on their trip to Sicchez, everything here is work. The life of a piece of food from seed to plate, especially for those without technology, requires heavy personal investment. A rural farmer is connected to his/her food in a way that we can’t come close to understanding in the States. Almost every crop I can think of that is to be stored (coffee, peanuts, corn, beans) must first be cleaned and dried out in the sun before being ground, toasted, and stored. In these pictures we’re taking the kernels off of semi-dried corn so that they can lay the grains in the sun to finish drying completely. For green city folk like us, our thumbs start to hurt after 20 minutes. These times with the family are really special to Brian and I. It’s kind of like the equivalent of sitting around the fire. I can understand now why seniors get so nostalgic for the days before television and computers, there is an organic quality to time with the family that tends to get lost with so many new fancy diversions. However, I do have to say that it makes me somewhat pained to see how much time, land, and labour go into growing food for animals. Animals that usually die of diseases, get eaten by wild animals, or stolen. And still, even with all the effort of raising animals, there is a severe protein deficiency in 40% of the children here. The amount of protein-rich plant crops they could grow in the same space as all of the corn or grass for grazing is astounding. But I’m just a biased vegetarian.





How women weave.




This man is making adobes for an improved cooking stove that Brian will use in his demonstrations. The mud is mixed with a particular type of grass. He made about 70 adobes in a little over 8 hours.






It’s actually a lot of fun to play with the mud, kind of brought me back to the days of being three years old and enjoying the sensation of mud running through my fingers. Brian built a cocina mejorada (improved cooking stove) for his training classes with the local mothers. The health center chose four villages to work with in which all of the moms with kids under three will receive the materials for the stove. In return the families have to make the adobes, transport the materials to their houses, and build the stoves. There are about 30 participating families, plus the local schools (the moms take turns cooking food at the schools because there is no school lunch program in Peru). These stoves are of vital importance all over the world in developing countries, as half of the world’s population cook with open fires in the kitchen (using wood, animal droppings, or crop debris). Respiratory infections are among the three most common health problems in Sicchez, along with diarrhea (parasites) and psoriasis (alcoholism). Along with a chimney to divert the smoke, improved cooking stoves also burn more efficiently, using 35% less firewood. Yay for the forest!! The moms came down from the villages for a training given by Brian and the nurse. Our next task is to visit each family to answer questions and provide support in building their new stoves.










Just in case you had doubts, dirt floors and streets do follow a strict cleaning regimen: 1) fill up holes with loose dirt and pack it down, 2) if a street, rake away weeds, 3)sweep the dirt to remove all loose debris – yes, with a broom, 4) water the dirt, but not too much. If this is not done weekly, your dirt floor with begin to get pockmarks, become uneven, and create lots of dust. This is how I spent one beautiful Friday helping a local village clean the streets for their anniversary party. Turned out pretty clean, hugh? Living on dirt doesn’t have to be dirty!








In our never-ending quest to understand the place and people of Sicchez, I went peanut-harvesting with a man from a village down the valley (2,000 ft. down). His way of life is extremely simple and he is very poor. They have some goats, pigs, chickens and cows and about 5 acres of land. No money except for what they can sell of their crops to a village up the valley. His village just got electricity last month. And he is one of the happiest people I know. Not really surprising. In the picture of his field, the peanuts are the green patch on the right. So peanut harvesting is a freakin back breaker. You pull the plants up and make big piles, but most of the peanuts get stuck in the ground so with a stick (which he carved with his machete to make a point) you have to dig them out. But usually there are two layers of peanuts underneath, and some of them are really deep. At first he had to re-dig everything I did because I kept missing them. It’s a really interesting plant. The flowers are tiny yellow things that bloom right next to the ground and the peanuts are the fruit that develop in the soil. After four hours of continual harvesting I wasn’t sure if I could stand up straight. The women bring lunch to the field so you don’t waste time walking back and forth, as most fields here are a ways from the house (that has a lot to do with historical land-us policy in Peru, a fascinating and sickening story).







Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Novedades (what´s new)

We are currently being rewarded with a very prosperous harvest of corn, squash, beans, oranges, and peanuts to make up for the very poor mango-tropical fruit harvests of Jan and Feb. Which means lots of tamales (yummy! sorry you have to miss all the fresh tamales, Dad!), corn tea (yup - they toast and grind the kernals and make a thick kind of tea from it, it´s good), corn puree, corn soup, fresh squeezed orange juice, squash soup and beans in almost everything. The time ´o plenty is here and oh so good. I will NEVER buy ornage juice from a box ever again. For that matter, never will I have the opportunity to walk on a dirt path through nature on a daily basis as part of my job, or live in a place without a single car or traffic sign. Isolation can be spiritually prosperous if you look at it right.

So, some pics of late:


Brian and I did a veggie cooking class for the moms that want to do gardens with us. We made three types: cooked carrots with sugar and cinnamon, cooked beets with mayo and cumin, and a raw salad with a ginger-garlic-green onion-soy sauce dressing. They actually really liked them, but the little ones wouldn´t eat raw spinach (I guess you can´t blame them).


Makin´salad.


This is one week´s worth of recyclables collected from about half of the community (we started with half of the population, about 40 families, and added on the next week to include everyone).


One of the trash workers has a full day to separate and crush they recyclables so we can bag them and sell them in Piura.


A community member with her bucket for recyclable classification. She and her husband are going the extra mile - they´re actually cleaning up the trash from their field and turning it in to us!! They´re really excited to be ¨getting rid of the contamination¨ so that their plants are healthier. So proud!


One of the two trash collectors with the recyclables. She can collect everything from her assigned sector within two hours, it´s didn´t turn out to be much extra work for her - which is good because it´s been easy to get her on board with the changes. The municipality is promising to buy a tricycle with a large bin attatched to make the work easier for the collectors. We shall see...


Some families had recyclables saved up for months and months.


The participation so far is 100%, people love having their trash collected. If one of the collectors forgets to go to a house, we hear about it within hours.


That´s about all she can fit into one load.


They collect non-recyclables from the sacs on different days.


The municipal dump.


Ahhhh...Ecuador


Kids rock! Never afraid to smile!

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

More Confusion, Craziness, and Encouragement…Or Are We Just Experiencing Magical Realism Again?

So some guys came down to Sicchez from the provincial capital of Ayabaca (like a county seat), set up an antenna, and started a radio station. Cool!!

And then the tapestry of alternate realities began… Here - I can’t fairly say if it’s Peru, rural Peru, South America, or Latino culture in general - the truth is elusive, just out of grasp and variable. In some ways thoroughly maddening when one needs a firm grasp on the situation at hand, or to follow through on a specific task (how many different damn answers are there to one simple question?!?); but this rippling and fluid version of he truth may be closer to reality than we realize. Maybe magical realism can be better described as comprehensive realism.

Anyway, the case in point: the new radio station in Sicchez. Everyone’s excited, paying a few cents to send ¨shot outs¨ to friends over the air and blasting the station over the town loudspeakers. And then slowly, ever so slowly, we begin to realize that it’s all we hear anymore. The other two radio stations (one from Lima and one from Ecuador), go away. No one watches telenovelas on the Peruvian TV network either (this is a truly horrifying thing) and we begin to wonder why. Whispers of a take-over ride the breeze: the radio signal has intercepted and canceled out all the other radio signals. They just don’t come in. Worse yet, the TV signals come in, but with the Sicchz radio station audio. Then, the inconceivable happens: the only phone in town, a community phone with satellite signal, plays the Sicchez radio station when you dial a number. Awesome! We have been usurped, overtaken. But to what degree depends on who you ask. Everyone knows the truth, but not one version has a match.

But all good phenomenon normalize, all good stars fade away, and one fine morning a week ago found our town waking up to the Lima radio station over the loudspeakers once again. Ummmm…..wait….we thought…
Gueiby (our 11 year old host sister) looks at us as if we were completely insane and shrugs, ¨No, Angela, the Sicchez radio station never interrupted anything. Nothing’s changed.¨ Well, the drama at least gave us the illusion of something strange afoot, but it looks like business as usual reigns.

And the finale:
Now….imagine…you are a poor, rural Peruvian subsistence farmer. You don’t have a concept of ¨exercise¨ because life is an exercise in itself. The rainy season recedes and every morning you see some tall skinny white guy running by, sometimes 3 or 4 times. What is he running from?!? Wait – why did he come by again?!?

That’s my hubby! Brian’s training for a Peace Corps volunteer organized marathon in July (you all KNEW he’d find some hard-ass thing to train for while here, the Peace Corps cannot stop Brian from setting fitness goals). Granted, we are well-known by now, and I’d even venture to say well-loved too, but running?!? What?!? Why?!? Now that Brian’s become a regular morning attraction, providing a few seconds of entertainment for various families who live along the road, he’s become a bit of a star. Receiving shouts of hope and encouragement from the peanut gallery: ¨GO GRINGO GO!!¨ ¨ALMOST THERE GRINGO!!¨ ¨KEEP GOING!!¨ can be heard from the doorways. Not to mention friendly offers for cane sugar moonshine shots (180 poof, no joke) from already drunk men – the Sicchez style aid-station. Even if the Siccheñans don’t know why, they wish him the very best in his race. And so do I.

p.s. The race is July 5th in Pacasmayo. Wish him happy running (a natural like him doesn´t need luck!)

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Hmmmm...random

HI! LOOK WHAT I FOUND!!! I´M GOING CRAZY UP HERE!!!


Some mommies and babies in one of our family garden trainings.

Compost demonstration. Nice sweat marks, no?


Insanely intoxicating and utterly orgasmic smelling orchids on our porch. I´ll never forget that smell!







Relationships Take Time

So we´re in the final quarter of our servie here – WIERD!! The last six months of our service are turning out to be the most productive activity-wise. Which tells us one very important thing: relationships come first. Always. Life is inevitably social, defined not by the existance of something in isolation (because it doesn´t), but by the boundless, infinate connections between it All That Is. It´s hard to make good things happen without first developing the textures and pulse of your relation to others who are involved in whatever you´re trying to do. At work, home, in the park, whatever. I knew that as a teacher, spending the first two months of school mostly on establishing a good ¨classroom environment¨, and it always paid off later on. Something not working? Try working on the relationships with those around you instead of the actual problem itslef.
So Sícchez is proving to be the same. But it sure did take a while, which I guess is normal for being foreigners and all. Over a year to earn trust. To establish patterns so that we were predictable (you wouldn´t believe how important predictability is even in adult relationships. It´s not just for kids!). And finally, they are starting to see that we are serious about what we say and that we won´t dissapoint them. As Brian would say, it took a lot of drunken-ear-numbing-four-hour-late meetings and parties to get to where we are!

Okay, so I know I´m a fluffy writer. I can´t help it, I´m a Romantic. The Synic could easily make several observations about the work we do with people in Sicchez: 1) people only motivate when they´re given something, 2) 99% say they´ll do something and don´t, 3) political and institutional dysfunction hamper possibilities, and 4) once we leave, it´ll all go back to the way it was. Unfortunately, our own host family holds this synical view. They think I´m wasting time and money developing a new trash management system. They say people are just stuck in their ways. They don´t think it will work (hey thanks for the support, family!). But they also don´t participate in the community. I never see them at meetings or helping out in communal work days. So the question remains: can we overcome these obstacles by building good relationships? It think so, with a few key people to keep the forward-moving juices flowing.

With these things in mind, I will describe some recent developments with trash collection and veggie gardens. Luckily, or not, you got me on a good week – so onward with the fluff:

My community partner and I recently received some funds from a grant we wrote together and purchased materials for a new waste-management system (in the population center only). After going house-to-house to inform community members of our work at the beginning of this year, we prepared a little hut for recyclables storage and improved the sanitary landfills that the municipality is using for trash disposal (remember the situation when we arrived - trash being dumped behind a tree and burned, and a few community trash cans that were used more frequently by hungry dogs than by people?).

The recycling storage hut.
Inside the hut.
Municipal sanitary landfill.
The materials we purchased are large plastic buckets (60 liters) and sacks for each family to separate recyclables from true trash in their home. According to a fixed schedule, the trash collectors will go around with their wheelbarrows house-to-house collecting the segragated trash, collecting from public cans, or classifying the recyclables in the hut; depending on the day. After a sufficient amount of recyclables are collected they´ll be sold in the city, the income of which will be re-invested in maintaining the system. Hoepfully having a trash system will negate the need for people to take it to the fields or streams for dumping.
A week ago, we handed out the materials to the first 40 participating families (we´re starting with a thrid of the population and adding another third every two weeks so the whole thing doesn´t overwhelm us). Handed out, NOT handout. The municipality contributed 40% of the total budget, and people who do not use their materials correctly wil have them taken away. People were really excited and personally told me how much they appreciated the information and effort to clean the town up. A lot of them just don´t know the dangers of inadequte trash disposal. Nobody had ever heard of the Three R´s. And, to put the icing on the cake, 90% of the invited families actually came to the meeting!! (This being amazing knowing that usually 10% of people ever show up to meetings – I´m not exaggerating). I was so proud!! Of course, it isn´t all fariy tale. One of the authorities showed up stumbling-slurring drunk and tried to give the introduction and objectives of the project while waving like a willow in the wind. But hey, we are in Sícchez, they like their liquor. What could I do but look at Brian and smile?!?!
Now they will separate trash at home.

Here we are at the training while an authority who showed up extremely drunk (slurring, waving) tried to introduce the project. Whachya gonna do?
The new activities are accompanied by lots of education about littering, ¨illegal¨ dumping, and other related themes at meetings, over the loudspeakers, house visits, etc. Each institution (school, municipality, asociations, clubs, etc) in Sicchez will also recieve the materials to classify trash, and hopefully we´ll get a recycling committe together with the local school kids to manage everthing in their schools. Ongoing monitoring is to be done by the local governor and an environmental regent, but I will probably do it with them for a while until it becomes a habit.

I have to say, I´ve been really proud of the Siccheñans lately. My community associate is starting to take the lead, I don´t have to remind him about things anymore and he actually programs activities like clean-up campaigns on his own now. Some of the authorities are beginning to remind people about cleanliness without my urging, and lots of people who didn´t go to the first meeting are asking me when they can start participating in trash selection too. It´s encouraging because the desire is beginning to shift from me to them. And I know it´s because of the relationships I´ve made. I believe in what they can accomplish, and now that they trust me, they are starting to believe that they can believe in themselves too.

And I guess that’s the main thing – I just want them to be able to see themselves as people who are empowered, progressing in their goals as a community, and fully capable of taking care of themselves. In a country with such high paternalism and low self-esteem, having a clean and organized community can mean a lot for their collective self image.

On Brian’s conquest against a 40% malnutrition rate among Sicceñan children, gardens are beginning to take shape. We opened the participation up to any mom with children under three years of age and pregnant women in the entire district. Participation is voluntary and the moms must complete a few required taskes before receiving seeds to start a garden: they have to participate in all the trainings, fence off an area for a garden, have a compost pile, and agree to harvest seeds to keep the garden growing each year. All of which we verify by doing house visits, which is a lot of walking all over the place – right up our alley!

*Here we must add a huge and warm thank-you to Jane of Altrusa in Texas for donating the funds for the seeds. Your organization is extremely generous and the Siccheñan children and women are very grateful!!

Hey Dad, did I kill you with all the verbose prose? Heeeheee, enjoy!

Happy Mother´s Day and Happy Farther´s day to our loving and supportive parents. And Happy Birthday Dad! We´re sad we can´t celebrate with you!!

And congrats AnnMarie, Ash, Melia, and Jim!!!!! You are going to learn so much about life and love with new little ones! We really wish we could be there to share it all!


Monday, April 20, 2009

Some Random Pics of Kitchens

Okay, I´ll post some commentary within the next month, lots of stuff is happening...but for now... I thought you´d like to see some pictures of typical kitchens. They are powered by firewood. You will be able to better appreciate why Brian wants to include improved cooking stoves in with his nutrition project...
The smoke leaves through a small hole in the roof.
Ummmmm...that´s a horizontal chimney! The top is corroded away!





Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Our Intrepid Father-In-Law

So here are some pics from our journeys with Brian Sr. around the beautiful country of Peru. For being about one foot taller on average than everyone else, Brian Sr. bravely jammed himself into tin can taxis, cramped busses and all sorts of small spaces to get a glimpse of the northern mountains near our site, beaches, Cajamarca (mountains), Lima, and Cusco/Machu Picchu. We never kept him wanting for activity! And more than anything, we infinately appreciate his support and willingness to have this experience with us. For Brian and I, seeing family was by far the most rewarding part of the trip!
A gorgeous local beach know as Colán. It´s friggin hot right now, so the beach was high priority.Only about a two mile stretch of local´s summer homes line the beach. It´s a nice tranquil place without tourist annoyances.

Also in Colán is the oldest church in all of Latin America (1500´s) made from rock taken from the nearby cliffs. True to historical tendencies, it was built right on top of the old worshipping grounds of indegenous people.



Plaza de Armas in Cajamarca. Cajamarca is also in the northern mountains, but south of where Brian and I live. This spot is where Pizarro murdered the Incan king after first offering him amnesty in trade for tons and tons of gold and silver. The king, Atahualpa, had the ransom brought in from all over the empire but was deceieved anyway.
Cajamarca from an outlook. It´s in a beautifu valley. Just over the hills is the fifth largest mine in the world (mostly gold), the company is based in Denver.


Another view of the valley.

The ¨rock forest¨. We did a two hour walk around here where we saw 3,000 year old ruins, irrigation canals, and petroglyphs. It´s at 10,500 ft, poor Brian Sr. braved the walk on his sickest day!